Dun dun dun, it’s always the elephant in the room for lash techs. Our clients are all of the sudden having bad retention. Is it our fault or theirs? Is it the type of glue? Is it the amount of glue? Is it the heat? I’m here to tell you that in my experience the majority of retention issues are actually something that we as lash techs can prevent at least 90% of the time. Pffffft yea right you say! Here’s the down-low:

Glue should be changed every 4-6 weeks for optimum retention.
In the hot temperature and/or high humidity, using a glue that dries too quickly will cause major retention issues. If you can use a 0.5 second drying time glue all winter, that’s great. DO NOT try to use the same glue in 60% humidity or you will find lashes brushing off during the appointment and clients losing a significant amount of lashes within the first few days of their appointment.
Similarly, if it’s hot or humid, you do not want to cleanse the lashes before you apply lashes without drying them really good. Their lashes will already have water droplets on them from the high humidity and adding any more to the lashes will result in the glue cracking and the extensions falling off very quickly. If you are having trouble with humidity, try using a primer to dry the lashes out a bit.
In the winter, if humidity is low, you want to use a faster setting glue. In general, you want to AVOID using primer because their lashes will already be drying and using primer will dry out the lashes even more, creating issues with the glue curing. There will always be those few clients that are naturally very oily that you will use primer on at every single appointment, but don’t use primer in the winter unless your client is having retention issues. Finishing with a nano mister during the winter will also help lock in the moisture and cure the glue quicker, which avoids the glue drying out and cracking.
Keep a humidifier, dehumidifier and hygrometer available at all times to have all the tools on hand to control your environment. It will make your job easier and your clients happier.
Be sure to end appointments by applying a sealant to your client’s extensions to help retention during hot and humid days.
Lastly, educating clients on proper after care is CRUCIAL! Be sure to sell them cleanser and show them how to properly cleanse their lashes. Doing this a minimum of 3 days a week (ideally daily) will significantly improve retention by keeping their lashes clean and free from oils, debris and other things that could affect the glue. Advise them to avoid heat for the first 24-48 hours completely and to be very careful at all times around bonfires, BBQs, saunas, ovens, etc as the heat will break down the bond the glue has with the natural lash. This burst of heat could also singe the extensions resulting in a kinky look and the extensions losing it’s curl.

In conclusion, retention is mostly on us as lash techs to control our environment, using the right products and tools and to educate our clients properly. If you follow these tips and use high quality products, you will have great retention!